19August2008
When the (Chocolate) Chips Are Down…
Posted by admin under: Articles.
Someone once said that in the cookies of life, friends are the chocolate chips. I’d like to add my own spin and say that in the cookies of life, chocolate chips are the friends.
Having not grown up with the chocolate chip cookie as an indelible part of my culture, I have become increasingly intrigued by Americans’ love affair with the chocolate chip cookie. The affair began on that fateful day in 1933 when Ruth Wakefield added chocolate chips to her sugar cookie dough. No one knows for certain the true story behind how Mrs. Wakefield came to create the chocolate chip cookie, but no matter. It was an ingenious move nonetheless.
There are as many variations of her Toll House Chocolate Crunch Cookie recipe as there are bakers attempting to improve upon it. But there’s no denying that the ingredients are simple; sugar, butter, flour, eggs, leavening agents, salt and chocolate. Curiously enough, it’s the way in which these ingredients are manipulated and the quality of chocolate used that turns a so-so cookie into one that evokes a multitude of oohs and aahs.
With this in mind, I challenged myself to create a recipe that would be worthy of praise from Americans, who undoubtedly are the chocolate chip cookie experts. After several weeks of poring over all my science cookbooks and imbibing as much information as my little gray cells could retain, I came to two conclusions: the dough needs to rest in the refrigerator for at least 24 hours, but preferably for 36; and the cookies taste at their optimum when served warm.
Resting the dough is an important step because it develops a rich, caramel finish that is needed to elevate the cookie to “delectable” status. And the longer the dough rests, the more time all the ingredients have to blend and work their magic.
Another secret I stumbled upon is that chocolate maestro Jacques Torres uses couverture chocolate disks instead of chocolate chips. Rather than melting as individual blobs, which is what occurs when you use chips, his approach causes the chocolate to melt in thin layers: a brilliant idea. The result is a mouthful of creamy chocolate with every bite. Now that’s my type of cookie!
Using chocolate with at least a 60 percent cacao content results in a more intense chocolate taste. I have found that for the home baker Ghirardelli Bittersweet Chocolate Premium Baking Bars work perfectly for several reasons: the squares are thin enough to give the desired layers throughout each cookie (a-la-Jacques Torres); and the chocolate melts evenly and remains soft even after the cookies have cooled. Afterall, your baked products are only as good as the quality of ingredients used.
Because I adore anything-oatmeal and strive to include even a soupçon of health-sense in my recipes, I deviated from the norm and used whole grain oat flour instead of white flour. Oat flour adds to the overall flavour profile and marries well with the other ingredients in the dough.
My recipe incorporates all the insightful tips and techniques I learned from cooking scientists and chefs that have graciously shared their wealth of knowledge through their books. So in essence, this recipe pays homage to all of them.
I sincerely hope you enjoy my version of the chocolate chip cookie and please don’t hesitate to share your opinion of them.
Chock-full O’ Chocolate Chip Cookies
(Makes about 2 dozen 4-inch cookies)
3 2/3 cups organic whole grain oat flour
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter
2 cups light brown sugar
1 teaspoon espresso powder dissolved in 1 tablespoon boiling water and cooled or 1 tablespoon strong black coffee, cooled
2 large eggs
1 ½ teaspoons Madagascar Bourbon Pure Vanilla Bean Paste or vanilla extract
3 bars of 4 ounces each (12 ounces total) *60% cacao bittersweet chocolate, chopped into small squares
Baker’s Tip: To obtain the accurate amount of flour, always loosen the flour with a spoon first before spooning it into your measuring cup. Level off the flour with the straight edge of a knife.
In a large bowl, sift together flour, kosher salt and baking soda. Set aside.
Using a stand or handheld mixer, beat butter and sugar on high speed until light and creamy, about 5 minutes. Add the coffee and beat on low speed for a further 1 minute until fully incorporated.
Add eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition. Stir in the extract. Add dry ingredients and mix until just blended.
Drop chocolate pieces into dough and with a large spoon gently incorporate them, making sure to not break them apart.
Press plastic wrap against dough and cover completely. Refrigerate for at least 24 hours but preferably 36 hours. Dough may be used in batches and can be refrigerated for up to 72 hours.
When ready to bake, preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or use a nonstick baking mat. If dough is too firm to scoop, let it stand at room temperature for 20-30 minutes to soften.
Using a cookie scoop or tablespoon (dough will be chunky), place spoonfuls of dough onto lined baking sheet and with fingertips carefully coax each cookie into a somewhat even round, about 2 ½ inches in diameter (cookies will spread to approximately 4 inches in the oven); gently press down any pieces of chocolate that are poking up.
Bake until the edges have turned golden brown but the center is still soft, about 15-18 minutes (the edge will be slightly darker than the remainder of the cookie).
Remove from oven and let cookies cool on baking sheet for no less than 3 and up to 5 minutes.
With a spatula, gently transfer cookies to a separate wire rack to cool for a further 10 minutes. Eat warm with a glass of soy milk.
If any cookies remain, store covered in a cookie tin.
*I use Ghirardelli 60% Cacao Bittersweet Chocolate Premium Baking Bars (available in the baking section of the grocery store).
Photo #1: Chopped chocolate ready to be mixed into dough.
Photo #2: Raw cookies ready for the oven.
Photo #3: Some like it hot! Raw dough is magically transformed.
Photo #4: Perfectly baked and sedate…
Photo #5: the cookies belie their creamy, chocolatey interior.
Photo #6: Dig in and pass the milk please!
(Photography by Sharon Picone)



